by Craig Brelsford
Founder, shanghaibirding.com
INTRODUCTION
Brian Ivon Jones, Jan-Erik Nilsén, and I drove 3,977 km in 15 days, starting and ending in Golmud, Qinghai. Our trip took us across a broad swath of central Qinghai and into western Gansu. We became some of the few birders to visit Gōuhuā and the Chuma’er Valley in Qinghai and Sùběi in Gansu.
HIGHLIGHTS
— Finding 98 species of bird (see list below) in various types of habitat, among them the Qaidam Basin and Kunlun, Bayan Har, and Qilian mountains, at elevations ranging from 2200-5050 m, and at latitudes ranging from 33°50′ to 39°30′ N
— Near Mǎduō, watching a Tibetan Fox attack, kill, and devour a vole
— Finding 46 Tibetan Antelope in Antelope Valley
— Finding Tibetan Wolf in Antelope Valley
— Viewing 92 Tibetan Wild Ass at Gōuhuā and 89 in Antelope Valley
— Despite being barred from entering Yanchiwan National Nature Reserve in Gansu, keeping a positive attitude and finding Saxaul Sparrow, Barred Warbler, and Sulphur-bellied Warbler outside the borders of the reserve
Itinerary (all dates July 2014)
12-14: Golmud (Géěrmù [格尔木]), Qinghai
15: along Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway
16: Gōuhuā (沟花)
17: Mǎduō (玛多)
18: Qǔmálái (曲麻莱)
19-20: Búdòngquán (不冻泉)
21: Wǔdàoliáng (五道梁)
22: Dà Cháidàn (大柴旦)
23-25: Sùběi (肃北), Gansu
26: Golmud
Sat. 12 July 2014
Golmud (Géěrmù [格尔木]), Qinghai
Arrived in morning with Brian Ivon Jones, the two of us having spent Friday night near the airport near Xī’ān (西安). (It was simpler for Brian and me to break our flights from Shanghai and Shēnzhèn over two days than try to make it all the way to Qinghai in one day.) Brian is an Englishman who has spent much of his life outside Great Britain. He lives in Shēnzhèn. We took a taxi to our hotel, Huánghé Bīnguǎn (黄河宾馆; +86 [0] 979-895022). There, we met our driver, Mr. Wáng (王), and got our first look at the car we’d be using, a Mitsubishi Pajero. Later, our partner Jan-Erik Nilsén arrived. Jan-Erik is from Sweden and lives in Beijing. In the afternoon, the three of us did light birding at Jīnyú Hú (金鱼湖), a recreational area on the western outskirts of Golmud (Géěrmù [格尔木]). We drove through downtown Golmud. Golmud looks like a miniature version of Pǔdōng set in the desert. The entire city is new, and everyone we’ve spoken to has lived here less than 10 years. Unlike many towns in western China, in which most residents belong to an ethnic minority, most people here are Han. They’ve migrated here from all across China. The weather was mild today, the light dazzling. Cloudy weather in Shanghai was giving me the wintertime blues in summer; in arid Qinghai, one views the world as through a high-definition display.
Sun. 13 July 2014
Golmud
We headed east on the G109. We turned off at a road with a big sign saying “青海诺木洪防沙治沙林场” (Qīnghǎi Nuòmùhóng Fángshā Zhìshā Línchǎng). We then drove 22 km to an observation deck at the end of a road. Near the deck is a pasture-wetland (36.536128, 96.201558), elev. 2700 m (8,860 ft.). There, we found a pair of Black-necked Crane, I had my first views ever of Bearded Reedling, and our team scored a major find: Eurasian Bittern, first for Qinghai. To reach this location, take the G109 east about 130 km from Golmud to km marker 2608. The big sign arches over the road turning off the G109. The turnoff is on the left if one is coming from Golmud. We returned to Golmud to spend the night.
Mon. 14 July 2014
Golmud
Driving west of Golmud on the S303, our team came upon Henderson’s Ground Jay. In the harsh midday sunlight, acquiring high-quality photos of the jays would be tough, but there was something else I could do: I could tell the story of the interesting behavior of this intelligent corvid, China’s answer to the Roadrunner. Like that well-known bird of the American Southwest, the Mongolian Ground Jay is highly terrestrial (though it flies well), and it is drawn to roads. Within minutes, we were seeing one of the things that attract ground jays to the road: roadkill. Roadkill consists not just of dead vertebrates, but also of insects struck by passing cars. Often, the moths and flies fall not far from where the car hit them, making them easy pickings for the jays. While observing the resourceful jays, I was busy snapping shots. Later, I discovered that I’d recorded images that because of the harsh sunlight are not of very high quality photographically, but that ornithologically are very useful; they tell the story of a bird that loves to run and that uses its terrestrial instincts to good effect on the highway. (Unfortunately, using the road has a price: We found a dead Mongolian Ground Jay, undoubtedly struck by a vehicle, along the S303.) After studying the jays, we continued west, stopping at Húyánglín Zìrán Bǎohùqū (胡杨林自然保护区). There were few birds there, but the spectacular sand dunes made the trip worth our while. In the late afternoon, we returned to Jīnyú Hú. There, just as the sun was going down, I got a lively portrait of Brian Ivon Jones. Even though Brian and I met just a few days ago, it’s already apparent to me that Brian, 69, has more vigor than many men 20 years his junior. We decided to leave Golmud the next day and make a long eastern detour to the Kunlun Mountains.
Tues. 15 July 2014
along Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway
We left Golmud in the morning and headed east along the G109. At Wūlánshān (乌兰山) we turned onto the road linking the G109 and the G214 near Huāshíxiá (花石峡). I saw no signs and nothing on the map giving the number of the road. I’m therefore calling it the Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway. In the evening, I wrote the following: “I’m in my tent in my sleeping bag. Brian Ivon Jones, Jan-Erik Nilsèn, our driver Mr. Wáng, and I are camping in the desert. We are on the road between Wūlánshān and Huāshíxiá. Our elevation is 3275 m. We have found a flat place far from the dusty road. The loudest sound is being made by the river. The temperature is steadily dropping, but I’m warm in my bag. I have the rain flaps rolled up and can see the starry desert sky through the netting. We had to camp out because we found a birdy place a few kilometers from here. Instead of pushing on toward Mǎduō (玛多), we went birdwatching. As the sun set, the light grew ever more beautiful. I got no lifers, but I shared Brian’s and Jan-Erik’s joy at finding a lifer for them: Brown Accentor. The birds at our spot were typical of the region—Black Redstart, Desert Wheatear, Rock Sparrow, Twite—but their sheer abundance in the perfect desert light swept us away. I live for moments like this, and I think my partners do, too.”
Wed. 16 July 2014
Gōuhuā (沟花)
At 06:00 the light of dawn was brighter than the light of the nearly full moon. The temperature in my sleeping bag was 31.5°. The temperature in my tent was 11°. We drove to Gōuhuā (沟花; 3990 m) and found 92 Tibetan Wild Ass. We’d never heard birders mention Gōuhuā, but it seems to be a top-quality spot, especially for mammals. The valley here is broad; instead of rushing out of the valley in a steep canyon, some of the water running down from the nearby mountains collects at the bottom of the valley, allowing rich green grass to grow. The grass attracts ungulates. The stream running through the valley is drying up in places, stranding catfish in ever-smaller pools. We counted ca. 900 Brown-headed Gull, attracted by the stranded catfish. We also saw 11 Black-necked Crane. We camped at Gōuhuā.
As we topped the hill, looking for a place to camp for the night, we inadvertently startled a group of Tibetan Wild Ass. They galloped powerfully off. No culture has been able to tame the Tibetan Wild Ass. In its refusal to accept bit and bridle, the Tibetan Wild Ass symbolizes the untamed beauty of the Tibetan Plateau.
Thurs. 17 July 2014
Mǎduō (玛多)
At about 05:30, at our camp at Gōuhuā, I heard the dry call of Tibetan Partridge. At 06:00, the temperature at Gōuhuā was 3.5°; in my sleeping bag, the temperature was 30°. We drove to the eastern end of the Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway. En route, we passed Dōnggěicuònà Hú (冬给错纳湖). We turned onto the G214 and drove the short distance to Huāshíxiá (花石峡). As we were approaching Huāshíxiá, I saw in the distance the construction site where last year I’d seen White-winged Redstart. I said, “Get ready, we’re about to hit the White-winged Redstart site!” Sure enough, we found a male White-winged Redstart on the very same utility wire on which I’d seen White-winged Redstart last year. Brian and Jan-Erik had a lifer! After two nights camping out, everyone was exhausted, so we decided to get to Mǎduō as soon as possible and rest there. I knew a good hotel from last year: Lǐngguó Bīnguǎn (岭国宾馆; +86 975-8348888; fast Internet).
We rested at the hotel, then, feeling refreshed, went out in the late afternoon. We drove to a spot 13 km N of town. Brian went deep into the high steppe and discovered a flock of 11 Black-necked Cranes. At the side of the road, Jan-Erik scoped a Tibetan Fox. The fox was on our side of the road and was about to cross over. I ran up to the car and got Mr. Wáng to drive me to the place where the fox had just crossed. I got out and trailed the fox. The fox crouched low like a cat, then pounced on a vole. As the fox ate the vole, I moved to within 15 m. I got images of the fox devouring the vole and licking its chops afterward. What a beautiful animal! What a thrill.
Fri. 18 July 2014
Qǔmálái (曲麻莱)
We left Mǎduō and drove south on the G214. We passed Greater Wild Horse Ridge (Dà Yěmǎ Lǐng [大野马岭]; 4326 m) and Lesser Wild Horse Ridge (Xiǎo Yěmǎ Lǐng [大野马岭]; 4302 m). From 12:00 to 13:30, we birded Bayan Har Pass (Bāyán Kālā Shānkǒu [巴颜喀拉山口]). We had a late lunch at Qīngshuǐhé (清水河). South of Qīngshuǐhé, we turned right, our destination Qǔmálái (曲麻莱). On the way to Qǔmálái, we saw, perching on hilltops near the road, Himalayan Vulture. Elevation: 4380 m. To get a closer look, I walked straight up the hill, stopping only when I began to feel dizzy, catching my breath, then continuing. Usually one sees these common birds soaring hundreds of meters above; this time, I managed to capture a vulture taking off. We passed through Záduō (杂多) and Bāgān (巴干). We crossed a pass at 4812 m. At Qǔmálái, we checked into Qumalai Hotel (Qǔmálái Bīnguǎn [曲麻莱宾馆]).
Sat. 19 July 2014
Búdòngquán (不冻泉)
It’s 311 rough and bumpy kilometers from Qǔmálái to Búdòngquán (不冻泉). On this stretch, the G308 is passable but unpaved. For most of the journey to Búdòngquán, the landscape was what I’ve come to expect at altitudes between 4000 m and 4600 m in Qinghai: steppe and mountainsides, much of the land fenced in and heavily grazed. Between the town of Qǔmáhé (曲麻河) and Búdòngqúan, starting at a point about 123 km E of Búdòngquán, the valley broadens considerably and is much less given over to grazing. For the next 50 km, we took in views of a valley so broad one could scarcely see the other side. Far in the distance loomed the snow-capped peaks of the Kunlun. I called this stretch of the Chuma’er River (Chǔmǎěr Hé [楚玛尔河]) “Antelope Valley,” because there we found 46 Tibetan Antelope. Jan-Erik said, “Chinese have their own Serengeti right here!” Using his binoculars skillfully, Brian picked out a lone, tawny-colored Tibetan Wolf. We watched the wolf for several minutes, noting its fleeting interest in a possibly weak Tibetan Gazelle and its more sustained interest in the pikas and voles. We saw the wolf at our favorite stretch of Antelope Valley, the 15-km section 115-100 km from Búdòngquán. We lingered in Antelope Valley for as long as time would allow, finally starting off again for Búdòngquán around sunset. Not far from the Valley, our Mitsubishi Pajero blew its right front tire. Despite the inadequacy of our jack, we managed, with considerable effort, to get the spare on. Just as we finished putting the spare on, the rain started falling hard. We witnessed a spectacular lightning storm. Lightning was hitting the ground and lighting up the plateau. Sometimes the flashes lasted more than one second. Strangely, little or no thunder accompanied the lightning. We finally arrived in Búdòngquán, staying in the first “hotel” we could find, a hole in the wall with neither bathroom nor steady electricity. I roomed with Mr. Wáng and shared a handful of cashew nuts with him—our supper. I slept in my sleeping bag in the unheated room.
Sun. 20 July 2014
Búdòngquán
We moved into better lodging at Kěkěxīlǐ Búdòngquán Zhāxī Bīnguǎn (可可西里不冻泉扎西宾馆; +86 158-0979-6505, +86 133-2761-9833). The proprietor, Sam, is a friendly, humorous man and speaks English. From 13:00 to 18:00, we birded around Yuzhufeng Glacier (Yùzhūfēng Bīngchuān [玉珠峰冰川]). A few km before the end of the road at the base of the glacier, we found habitat suitable for Sillem’s Mountain Finches. We stopped the car and began climbing, topping out on a ridge about 5050 m above sea level. We found no Sillem’s. We returned, rested, then drove to the end of the road. There, I found a Ladak Pika. It started to rain. We had to turn back before the road flooded.
Sun. 21 July 2014
Wǔdàoliáng (五道梁)
Still raining. We drove to Fēnghuǒshān (风火山), a point on the G109 70 km S of Wǔdàoliáng (五道梁). Elev.: 5010 m. We found Red Fox, and Brian and Jan-Erik got their first views of Robin Accentor.
Mon. 22 July 2014
Dà Cháidàn (大柴旦)
Raining again. Then snow. Driving north from Wǔdàoliáng, we found Tibetan Antelope on the side of the road. We abandoned our idea of finding Sillem’s Mountain Finch. As we passed the turnoff for the Yěniúgōu road, we noticed that although we were lower, the Kunlun Mountains were finally reaching the road itself. Sillem’s is most likely a Kunlun bird and not a Tibetan Plateau bird, and the deeper one finds oneself in the Kunlun, the more likely one is to find the species. The Yěniúgōu Road takes one west from the G109, deeper and deeper into the Kunlun. I understand now that with the many restrictions in the area and the lack of roads accessing the Kunlun from the G109, one’s first stop to search for Sillem’s needs to be Yann’s site. For the time being, Yann’s remains the only site that is both deep in the Kunlun and accessible from the G109. Little wonder, then, that Yann’s site is the only place where the Sillem’s has been seen since the discovery by Sillem himself. We drove to Golmud and birded at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (鱼水河鱼池), a small wetland on the G215 north of town. We then drove north, toward the Qinghai-Gansu border and the Qilian Mountains. We stopped at Dà Cháidàn (大柴旦), where we spent the night without incident.
Tue. 23 July 2014
Sùběi (肃北), Gansu
We drove from Dà Cháidàn north and crossed the border into Gansu. Earlier, studying Google Maps (satellite view), we’d come across a place in the Qilian Mountains that seemed a good place to find birds. The nearest town to that place was called Sùběi (肃北). We headed for Sùběi. On the way, after crossing into Gansu, we found a spot on the G215. There, we found a lifer for all of us: Mongolian Finch. We arrived at Sùběi and were enchanted with the desert town. Sùběi is completely new and clean; in the center of town, we couldn’t find a single old building. Hotel rooms were hard to come by, because a Mongolian festival was about to begin. Finally, we found a single, large room, which we shared—our driver and I slept on the floor, and Brian and Jan-Erik took the beds. As darkness fell, the four of us enjoyed roast lamb on the sidewalk in front of a restaurant.
Wed. 24 July 2014
Sùběi
We drove into the mountains south of Sùběi. In a deep ravine, we found a family of leaf warblers. These leaf warblers were unlike any leaf warbler I’d ever seen before. They hopped and flitted from boulder to boulder. After a long discussion with various birders, I came to the conclusion that they must be Sulphur-bellied Warbler. We moved farther up the valley. We got stopped at the gate to Yanchiwan National Nature Reserve (Yánchíwān Guójiājí Zìrán Bǎohùqū [盐池湾国家级自然保护区]). We were told we’d need permits to enter the reserve. We had mixed feelings about finding a nature reserve. On the one hand, getting a permit would require a 70-km round-trip to Sùběi and back. On the other hand, the existence of a nature reserve here confirmed that our instincts had been right, that the area we’d discovered on Google Maps was indeed high-quality habitat. We congratulated ourselves and hopefully made plans to get our permit and even spend a night or two camping in the high country of the reserve. Back in Sùběi, we found a palatial, multi-floor building dedicated solely to managing the reserve. It was lunchtime and the building was empty. Pictures of the many birds and mammals found in the reserve decorated the walls. Finally, a man from the reserve met us and took us to a big office with wood paneling. On the wall was a huge map of Yanchiwan. The man opened a book and showed us a paragraph saying that foreigners wishing to visit the reserve need a permit from a supervisor in Lánzhōu (兰州), 1,200 km away. In other words, foreigners are banned from the reserve. Disgusted, we walked out. There was no alternative but to bird the lower elevations.
Thurs. 25 July 2014
Sùběi
We birded a forested area south of Sùběi, fanning out and staying in touch through walkie-talkie. After finding little, I was ready to go elsewhere. Brian and I were sitting in the car, waiting for Jan-Erik. I heard chirps and whistles coming from a bird that I didn’t recognize. I got out and found the bird. It was Saxaul Sparrow, a lifer for all of us.
Fri. 26 July 2014
Golmud
In the morning, in an abandoned orchard south of Sùběi, I found a pair of birds that I didn’t recognize. I radioed to my partners a description of grey birds larger than Desert Whitethroat skulking in the thick branches. Later, Brian and Jan-Erik found the same type of bird. Back at the car, we determined that we must have seen Barred Warbler. We drove back to Golmud. At our hotel, plain-clothes police were waiting for us. Foreigners are banned from entering Dà Cháidàn, a fact of which we were unaware when we spent the night there. We spent a tense 45 minutes at a Public Security Bureau in Golmud. The next day, Brian flew back to Shēnzhèn, Jan-Erik to Beijing, and I to Shanghai.
BIRDS NOTED IN QINGHAI AND GANSU, CHINA, 12-26 JULY 2014
Note: This is a team list. Brian Ivon Jones, Jan-Erik Nilsén, and I worked this way: Most of the day we were together, seeing the same animals. Sometimes, we would split up, staying in contact by walkie-talkie and reporting what we were seeing. If one of us independently saw something interesting, he would call the other two, and the other two would attempt to view the bird. During long drives and at night, our team would hold a meeting to discuss the animals we had seen. Because we kept in contact throughout the day and held regular meetings, all the birds on this list, even those not seen by all of us, do nonetheless have relevance to all of us. If, however, a bird would have been a lifer for me and I missed it, then I make note of that. Also, Brian, Jan-Erik, and I may have minor disagreements over taxonomy and other matters. Each person’s list, therefore, may not be exactly like the others’.
Brian, Jan-Erik, and I noted 98 species.
Anseriformes: Anatidae
Greylag Goose
灰雁 (huīyàn)
Anser anser
38 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Bar-headed Goose
斑头雁 (bāntóu yàn)
Anser indicus
2 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
1 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
14 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
17 at spot on F214 13 km N of Mǎduō (4080 m) on 2017-07-17
Common Shelduck
翘鼻麻鸭 (qiàobí máyā)
Tadorna tadorna
1 (immature) at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
12 at Xiǎo Cháidámù Hú (3200 m) on 2014-07-22
Ruddy Shelduck
赤麻鸭 (chì máyā)
Tadorna ferruginea
25 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
2 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
6 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
7 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
11 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
6 at spot on F214 13 km N of Mǎduō (4080 m) on 2017-07-17
1 between Mǎduō and Bayan Har Pass (4120-4824 m) on 2014-07-18
2 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4270 m) on 2014-07-18
6 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Bùdòngquán (4420 m) on 2014-07-19
6 in Antelope Valley (4400-4450 m) on 2014-07-19
3 at Yuzhufeng Glacier (4700 m) on 2014-07-20
2 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
2 at Xiǎo Cháidámù Hú (3200 m) on 2014-07-22
2 at point on G215 ca. 200 km N of Golmud (3170 m) on 2013-07-23
1 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Mallard
绿头鸭 (lǜtóu yā)
Anas platyrhynchos
2 males at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
1 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Eastern Spot-billed Duck
斑嘴鸭 (bānzuǐyā)
Anas zonorhyncha
1 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Red-crested Pochard
赤嘴潜鸭 (chìzuǐ qiányā)
Netta rufina
6 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Ca. 40 (ca. 15 ducklings, 1 ad. male in eclipse) at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
Ca. 60 (including 5 females with ducklings) at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Red-breasted Merganser
红胸秋沙鸭 (hóngxiōng qiūshāyā)
Mergus serrator
4 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
Galliformes: Phasianidae
Tibetan Partridge
高原山鹑 (gāoyuán shānchún)
Perdix hodgsoniae
1 heard at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
partridge sp.
1 scurrying away near dark on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4000 m) on 2014-07-18
Common Pheasant
雉鸡 (zhìjī)
Phasianus colchicus
1 male at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
1 along S303 between Golmud and Húyánglín (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
Podicipediformes: Podicipedidae
Great Crested Grebe
凤头䴙䴘 (fèngtóu pìtī)
Podiceps cristatus
Ca. 50 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
Ca. 40 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
Ciconiiformes: Ciconiidae
Black Stork
黑鹳 (hēiguàn)
Ciconia nigra
2 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Pelecaniformes: Ardeidae
Eurasian Bittern
大麻鳽 (dà máyán)
Botaurus stellaris
1 seen by Jan-Erik at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Eastern Cattle Egret
牛背鹭 (niúbèi lù)
Bubulcus coromandus
2 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3180 m) on 2014-07-15
Suliformes: Phalacrocoracidae
Great Cormorant
普通鸬鹚 (pǔtōng lúcí)
Phalacrocorax carbo
11 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
Accipitriformes: Accipitridae
Bearded Vulture
胡兀鹫 (hú wùjiù)
Gypaetus barbatus
2 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (4110 m) on 2014-07-16
1 S of Ākèsài (3490 m) on 2014-07-26
Himalayan Vulture
高山兀鹫 (gāoshān wùjiù)
Gyps himalayensis
1 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (4110 m) on 2014-07-16
3 probables at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
5 at Bayan Har Pass (4824 m) on 2014-07-18
4 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4370 m) on 2014-07-18
4 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4450 m) on 2014-07-18
3 at scrubby area on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4040 m) on 2014-07-18
1 below Bangyang Pass (4500 m) on 2017-07-18
4 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Antelope Valley (4360 m) on 2014-07-19
2 in Antelope Valley (4400-4450 m) on 2014-07-19
3 at pass S of Ākèsài on G215 (3660 m) on 2014-07-26
Golden Eagle
金鵰 (jīn diāo)
Aquila chrysaetos
3 (2 2cy, 1 unaged) on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4370 m) on 2014-07-19
Eurasian Sparrowhawk
雀鹰 (quèyīng)
Accipiter nisus
1 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
Black Kite
黑鸢 (hēi yuān)
Milvus migrans
1 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Upland Buzzard
大鵟 (dà kuáng)
Buteo hemilasius
8 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
4 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
6 between Mǎduō and Bayan Har Pass (4120-4824 m) on 2014-07-18
7 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (ca. 4000 m) on 2014-07-18
23 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Antelope Valley (4200-4620 m) on 2014-07-19
4 in Antelope Valley (4400-4450 m) on 2014-07-19
1 on roadside W of Antelope Valley on S308 (4500 m) on 2014-07-19
4 at Yuzhufeng Glacier (4700-5100 m) on 2014-07-20
1 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
Long-legged Buzzard
棕尾鵟 (zōngwěi kuáng)
Buteo rufinus
2 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
Buteo sp.
1 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12 either vilpinus or Long-legged and definitely not Buteo sp. II
Buteo sp. II
1 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12; definitely not Buteo sp. 1. May be Steppe Buzzard or Himalayan Buzzard
Gruiformes: Rallidae
Water Rail
西方秧鸡 (xīfāng yāngjī)
Rallus aquaticus
1 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Ruddy-breasted Crake
红胸田鸡 (hóngxiōng tiánjī)
Zapornia fusca
1 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Common Moorhen
黑水鸡 (hēi shuǐjī)
Gallinula chloropus
4 juveniles at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Eurasian Coot
骨顶鸡 (gǔdǐng jī)
Fulica atra
Ca. 20 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
Ca. 65 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Gruiformes: Gruidae
Black-necked Crane
黑颈鹤 (hēijǐng hè)
Grus nigricollis
2 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
11 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
2 near Mǎduō (4100 m) on 2014-07-17
12 (11 in one flock, 1 solo) at spot on G214 13 km N of Mǎduō (4080 m) on 2017-07-17
2 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4390 m) on 2014-07-19
4 (2 pairs) in Antelope Valley (4430 m) on 2014-07-19
Charadriiformes: Recurvirostridae
Black-winged Stilt
黑翅长脚鹬 (hēichì chángjiǎoyù)
Himantopus himantopus
10 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Pied Avocet
反嘴鹬 (fǎnzuǐ yù)
Recurvirostra avosetta
30 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
20 at Xiǎo Cháidámù Hú (3200 m) on 2014-07-22
Charadriiformes: Charadriidae
Northern Lapwing
凤头麦鸡 (fèngtóu màijī)
Vanellus vanellus
4 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Little Ringed Plover
金眶鸻 (jīnkuàng héng)
Charadrius dubius
1 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
4 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
8 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
2 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
Kentish Plover
环颈鸻 (huánjǐng héng)
Charadrius alexandrinus
40, about 20 of them juveniles, at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Ca. 200 at Xiǎo Cháidámù Hú (3200 m) on 2014-07-22
Lesser Sand Plover
蒙古沙鸻 (měnggǔ shāhéng)
Charadrius mongolus
7 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
1 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
3 (1 female, 2 chicks) at Yuzhufeng Glacier (4700 m) on 2014-07-20
1 between Búdòngquán and Wǔdàoliáng (4500 m) on 2014-07-21
Charadriiformes: Scolopacidae
Eurasian Curlew
白腰杓鹬 (báiyāo sháoyù)
Numenius arquata
1 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
2 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
Common Redshank
红脚鹬 (hóngjiǎo yù)
Tringa totanus
11 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
48 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-15
140 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
7 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
10 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
Ca. 50 at Xiǎo Cháidámù Hú (3200 m) on 2014-07-22
Ca. 30 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Common Greenshank
青脚鹬 (qīngjiǎo yù)
Tringa nebularia
4 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
1 at point on G215 ca. 200 km N of Golmud (3170 m) on 2013-07-23
Green Sandpiper
白腰草鹬 (báiyāo cǎoyù)
Tringa ochropus
1 at point on G215 ca. 200 km N of Golmud (3170 m) on 2013-07-23
Wood Sandpiper
林鹬 (lín yù)
Tringa glareola
3 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
15 at Lake (3200 m) on 2014-07-22
Common Sandpiper
矶鹬 (jī yù)
Actitis hypoleucos
1 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
1 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-15
2 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
15 at point on G215 ca. 200 km N of Golmud (3170 m) on 2013-07-23
Curlew Sandpiper
弯嘴滨鹬 (wānzuǐ bīnyù)
Calidris ferruginea
6 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Charadriiformes: Laridae
Brown-headed Gull
棕头鸥 (zōngtóu ōu)
Chroicocephalus brunnicephalus
1 adult at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Flock of 66 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (4020 m) on 2014-07-16
Flock of 7 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3970 m) on 2014-07-16
Flock of ca. 900 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
Ca. 200 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
3 between Mǎduō and Bayan Har Pass (4120-4824 m) on 2014-07-18
1 between Búdòngquán and Wǔdàoliáng (4500 m) on 2014-07-21
Common Tern
普通燕鸥 (pǔtōng yàn’ōu)
Sterna hirundo
10 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12. One longipennis and about 10 minutus
40 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
15 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
5 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
3 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
2 between Bayan Har Pass and Qīngshuǐhé (4824-4270 m) on 2014-07-18
1 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4400 m) on 2014-07-19
1 between Búdòngquán and Wǔdàoliáng (4500 m) on 2014-07-21
Ca. 20 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Columbiformes: Columbidae
Hill Pigeon
岩鸽 (yángē)
Columba rupestris
2 along G109 ca. 25 km E of Bālóng (2890 m) on 2014-07-15
Few flocks totaling ca. 50 birds on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3160 m) on 2014-07-15
14 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3300-3575 m) on 3014-07-16
6 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
3 at point on G215 ca. 200 km N of Golmud (3170 m) on 2013-07-23
3 S of Sùběi (2570 m) on 2014-07-24
5 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
5 S of Sùběi (2520-2610 m) on 2014-07-25
1 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-26
Snow Pigeon
雪鸽 (xuěgē)
Columba leuconota
5 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3650 m) on 2014-07-16
Eurasian Collared Dove
灰斑鸠 (huī bānjiū)
Streptopelia decaocto
2 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
1 near Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
at point on G215 ca. 200 km N of Golmud (3170 m) on 2013-07-23
6 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
9 S of Sùběi (2610 m) on 2014-07-25
Cuculiformes: Cuculidae
Common Cuckoo
大杜鹃 (dà dùjuān)
Cuculus canorus
3 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
1 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
Cuculus sp.
1 at scrubby area on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4040 m) on 2014-07-18
3 most likely Common Cuckoo in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
Strigiformes: Strigidae
Little Owl
纵纹腹小鸮 (zòngwénfù xiǎoxiāo)
Athene noctua
4 (2 adults, 2 owlets) below Bangyang Pass (4500 m) on 2017-07-18
Apodiformes: Apodidae
Common Swift
普通楼燕 (pǔtōng lóuyàn)
Apus apus
12 at Wǔzǐ Hú (2680 m) on 2014-07-13
12 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
10 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
1 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3400 m) on 2014-07-16
15 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
2 at Xiǎo Cháidámù Hú (3200 m) on 2014-07-22
5 S of Sùběi (2690 m) on 2014-07-24
6 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
4 S of Sùběi (2610 m) on 2014-07-25
Salim Ali’s Swift
白腰雨燕 (báiyāoyǔyàn)
Apus salimalii
3 at scrubby area on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4040 m) on 2014-07-18
Bucerotiformes: Upupidae
Eurasian Hoopoe
戴胜 (dàishèng)
Upupa epops
1 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3400 m) on 2014-07-16
1 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
3 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4270 m) on 2014-07-18
6 at Wǔdàoliáng on 2014-07-21
1 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4800 m) on 2014-07-21
1 at point on G215 ca. 200 km N of Golmud (3170 m) on 2013-07-23
1 S of Sùběi (2500 m) on 2014-07-24
1 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-26
Falconiformes: Falconidae
Common Kestrel
红隼 (hóng sǔn)
Falco tinnunculus
3 S of Sùběi (2690 m) on 2014-07-24
kestrel sp.
?隼 (? sǔn)
Falco tinnunculus or F. naumanni
3 S of Sùběi (2600 m) on 2014-07-24
2 S of Sùběi (2610 m) on 2014-07-25
1 S of Ākèsài on G215 (3490 m) on 2014-07-26
Saker Falcon
猎隼 (lièsǔn)
Falco cherrug
1 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (4110 m) on 2014-07-16
1 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
1 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4290 m) on 2014-07-18
8 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4220-4460 m) on 2014-07-19
4 at Yuzhufeng Glacier (4800-5100 m) on 2014-07-20
4 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
Passeriformes: Laniidae
Brown Shrike
红尾伯劳 (hóngwěi bóláo)
Lanius cristatus
1 S of Sùběi (2560 m) on 2014-07-24
Isabelline Shrike
荒漠伯劳 (huāngmò bóláo)
Lanius isabellinus
8 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
30 at Wǔzǐ Hú (2680 m) on 2014-07-13
35 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
7 at Húyánglín (2700 m) on 2014-07-14
6 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
3 at Xiǎo Cháidámù Hú (3200 m) on 2014-07-22
1 S of Sùběi (2690 m) on 2014-07-24
10 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
5 S of Sùběi (2610 m) on 2014-07-25
15 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-26
2 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Chinese Grey Shrike
楔尾伯劳 (xiēwěi bóláo)
Lanius sphenocercus
4 giganteus on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3400 m) on 2014-07-16
Passeriformes: Corvidae
Henderson’s Ground Jay
黑尾地鸦 (hēiwěi dìyā)
Podoces hendersoni
2 at Wǔzǐ Hú (2680 m) on 2014-07-13
4 along S303 between Golmud and Húyánglín (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
1 N of Sùběi (1940 m) on 2014-07-26
1 on Ground5 S of Ākèsài (2500 m) on 2014-07-26
1 S of Ākèsài on G215 (3490 m) on 2014-07-26
Red-billed Chough
红嘴山鸦 (hóngzuǐ shānyā)
Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
5 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3560 m) on 2014-07-16
5 in Qǔmálái (4200 m) on 2014-07-19
2 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4180 m) on 2014-07-19
38 S of Sùběi (2620 m) on 2014-07-24
3 flying over scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
7 S of Sùběi (2600 m) on 2014-07-25
3 S of Ākèsài on G215 (3490 m) on 2014-07-26
Common Raven
渡鸦 (dùyā)
Corvus corax
3 on G109 between Golmud and Kunlun Pass (2900 m) on 2014-07-13
2 on G109 ca. 100 km E of Golmud (2880 m) on 2014-07-13
1 on G109 ca. 70 km E of Golmud (2760 m) on 2014-07-15
9 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
3 at E terminus of Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway on G214 (4000 m) on 2014-07-17
4 at Bayan Har Pass (4824 m) on 2014-07-18
4 between Bayan Har Pass and Qīngshuǐhé (4824-4270 m) on 2014-07-18
20 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (ca. 4000 m) on 2014-07-18
2 on G109 S of Búdòngquán (4730 m) on 2014-07-20
1 near Yùzhūfēng Měishíchéng (4600 m) on 2014-07-20
Ca. 15 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
Ca. 30 at point on G215 ca. 200 km N of Golmud (3170 m) on 2013-07-23
Passeriformes: Paridae
Ground Tit
褐背地山雀 (hèbèi dìshānquè)
Pseudopodoces humilis
5 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3100 m) on 2014-07-15
15 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3300-3580 m) on 2014-07-16
Xx at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
8 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
3 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
1 between Mǎduō and Bayan Har Pass (4120-4824 m) on 2014-07-18
5 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (ca. 4000 m) on 2014-07-18
3 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Antelope Valley (4340 m) on 2014-07-19
1 in Antelope Valley (4400-4450 m) on 2014-07-19
5 at Yùzhūfēng Měishíchéng (4600 m) on 2014-07-20
1 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
Ca. 30 S of Sùběi (2610 m) on 2014-07-24
Passeriformes: Panuridae
Bearded Reedling
文须雀 (wénxū què)
Panurus biarmicus
3 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
15 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
20 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Passeriformes: Alaudidae
Horned Lark
角百灵 (jiǎo bǎilíng)
Eremophila alpestris
30 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-13
2 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
3 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
5 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
2 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
5 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
8 at Bayan Har Pass (4824 m) on 2014-07-18
2 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (ca. 4000 m) on 2014-07-18
10 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Antelope Valley (4410 m) on 2014-07-19
2 in Antelope Valley (4400-4450 m) on 2014-07-19
4 at Búdòngquán (4600 m) on 2014-07-20
5 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
3 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
1 at Xiǎo Cháidámù Hú (3200 m) on 2014-07-22
Greater Short-toed Lark
大短趾百灵 (dà duǎnzhǐbǎilíng)
Calandrella brachydactyla
1 between Mǎduō and Bayan Har Pass (4120-4824 m) on 2014-07-18
Hume’s Short-toed Lark
细嘴短趾百灵 (xìzuǐ duǎnzhǐbǎilíng)
Calandrella acutirostris
2 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
Asian Short-toed Lark
亚洲短趾百灵 (yàzhōu duǎnzhǐbǎilíng)
Alaudala cheleensis
3 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
5 at Wǔzǐ Hú (2680 m) on 2014-07-13
2 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
3 at Húyánglín (2700 m) on 2014-07-14
2 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
short-toed lark sp.
1 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12; definitely not Asian Short-toed Lark
4 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
2 at Húyánglín (2700 m) on 2014-07-14
1 S of Sùběi (2360 m) on 2014-07-24; had dark throat-sides
1 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
lark sp.
1 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
Passeriformes: Hirundinidae
Barn Swallow
家燕 (jiā yàn)
Hirundo rustica
1 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
Eurasian Crag Martin
岩燕 (yányàn)
Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Ca. 50 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
3 S of Sùběi (2610 m) on 2014-07-25
Common House Martin
白腹毛脚燕 (báifù máojiǎoyàn)
Delichon urbicum
2 S of Sùběi (2690 m) on 2014-07-24
1 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4270 m) on 2014-07-18
Passeriformes: Phylloscopidae
Alpine Leaf Warbler
华西柳莺 (huáxī liǔyīng)
Phylloscopus occisinensis
3 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3400 m) on 2014-07-16
Sulphur-bellied Warbler
灰柳莺 (huī liǔyīng)
Phylloscopus griseolus
3 S of Sùběi (2520 m) on 2014-07-25
Passeriformes: Acrocephalidae
Paddyfield Warbler
稻田苇莺 (dàotián wěiyīng)
Acrocephalus agricola
1 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Passeriformes: Sylviidae
Barred Warbler
横斑林莺 (héngbān línyīng)
Curruca nisoria
3 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-26
Desert Whitethroat
沙白喉林莺 (shā báihóulínyīng)
Curruca minula
3 at Wǔzǐ Hú (2680 m) on 2014-07-13
15 at Húyánglín (2700 m) on 2014-07-14
Passeriformes: Muscicapidae
Black Redstart
赭红尾鸲 (zhě hóngwěiqú)
Phoenicurus ochruros
11 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3080 m) on 2014-07-15
20 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3300-3580 m) on 2014-07-16
1 at Huāshíxiá (4070 m) on 2017-07-17
2 males between Mǎduō and Bayan Har Pass (4120-4824 m) on 2014-07-18
1 female at Bayan Har Pass (4824 m) on 2014-07-18
1 male below Bangyang Pass (4500 m) on 2014-07-18
3 males on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4230-4270 m) on 2014-07-19
1 male at Búdòngquán (4600 m) on 2014-07-20
2 juveniles at Yùzhūfēng Měishíchéng (4600 m) on 2014-07-20
1 S of Sùběi (2500 m) on 2014-07-24
3 S of Sùběi (2610 m) on 2014-07-25
1 on G215 S of Ākèsài (3490 m) on 2014-07-26
White-winged Redstart (Güldenstädt’s Redstart)
红腹红尾鸲 (hóngfù hóngwěiqú)
Phoenicurus erythrogastrus
2 (1 adult male, 1 juvenile) at Huāshíxiá (4070 m) on 2017-07-17
1 male between Mǎduō and Bayan Har Pass (4320 m) on 2014-07-18
5 (3 males, 2 females) at Bayan Har Pass (4824 m) on 2014-07-18
3 (1 pair, 1 female) at Yuzhufeng Glacier (4900-5100 m) on 2014-07-20
5 on G109 below Fēnghuǒshān (4880 m) on 2014-07-21
Common Rock Thrush
白背矶鸫 (báibèi jīdōng)
Monticola saxatilis
1 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3290 m) on 2014-07-15
Isabelline Wheatear
沙鵖 (shā jí)
Oenanthe isabellina
6 along Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3300-3580 m) on 2014-07-16
Desert Wheatear
漠鵖 (mò jí)
Oenanthe deserti
2 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
15 at Wǔzǐ Hú (2680 m) on 2014-07-13
2 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
1 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
1 at Bālóng (2890 m) on 2014-07-15
6 along Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3300-3580 m) on 2014-07-16
1 on G109 below Fēnghuǒshān (4880 m) on 2014-07-21
3 S of Sùběi (2690 m) on 2014-07-24
3 S of Sùběi (2610 m) on 2014-07-25
Passeriformes: Passeridae
Saxaul Sparrow
黑顶麻雀 (hēidǐng máquè)
Passer ammodendri
8 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
1 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-26
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
树麻雀 (shù máquè)
Passer montanus
10 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
8 at Wǔzǐ Hú (2680 m) on 2014-07-13
10 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
5 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
15 at Bālóng (2890 m) on 2014-07-15
3 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3400 m) on 2014-07-16
2 at Mǎduō (4120 m) on 2014-07-18
Ca. 20 around farms on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (ca. 4000 m) on 2014-07-18
3 in Qǔmálái (4200 m) on 2014-07-19
5 in Wǔdàoliáng (4665 m) on 2014-07-21
7 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
5 S of Sùběi (2520 m) on 2014-07-25
Rock Sparrow
石雀 (shí què)
Petronia petronia
7 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3290 m) on 2014-07-15
10 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3300-3575 m) on 2014-07-16
Henri’s Snowfinch
藏雪雀 (zàng xuěquè)
Montifringilla henrici
1 at Bayan Har Pass (4824 m) on 2014-07-18
Tibetan Snowfinch
褐翅雪雀 (hèchì xuěquè)
Montifringilla adamsi
4 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3540 m) on 2014-07-16
2 on G215 S of Ākèsài (3490 m) on 2014-07-23
2 on G215 S of Ākèsài (3490 m) on 2014-07-26
White-rumped Snowfinch
白腰雪雀 (báiyāo xuěquè)
Onychostruthus taczanowskii
8 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
5 km N of Mǎduō on 2017-07-17
5 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (ca. 4000 m) on 2014-07-18
11 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4360-4400 m) on 2014-07-19
Rufous-necked Snowfinch
棕颈雪雀 (zōngjǐng xuěquè)
Pyrgilauda ruficollis
15 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3900 m) on 2014-07-16
5 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
20 between Mǎduō and Bayan Har Pass (4120-4824 m) on 2014-07-18
3 at Bayan Har Pass (4824 m) on 2014-07-18
5 on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (ca. 4000 m) on 2014-07-18
10 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4200-4440 m) on 2014-07-19
Blanford’s Snowfinch
棕背雪雀 (zōngbèi xuěquè)
Pyrgilauda blanfordi
2 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3570 m) on 2014-07-16
1 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
4 at spot 13 km N of Mǎduō (4080 m) on 2017-07-17
1 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4270 m) on 2014-07-19
2 at Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
Passeriformes: Prunellidae
Robin Accentor
鸲岩鹨 (qú yánliù)
Prunella rubeculoides
3 on G109 below Fēnghuǒshān (5000 m) on 2014-07-21
Brown Accentor
褐岩鹨 (hè yánliù)
Prunella fulvescens
1 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3400 m) on 2014-07-16
10 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3300-3575 m) on 2014-07-16
3 S of Sùběi (2610 m) on 2014-07-24
10 of Sùběi (2500 m) on 2014-07-25
Passeriformes: Motacillidae
Eastern Yellow Wagtail
黄鹡鸰 (huáng jílíng)
Motacilla tschutschensis
1 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Citrine Wagtail
黄头鹡鸰 (huángtóu jílíng)
Motacilla citreola
30 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
3 heard at Wǔzǐ Hú (2680 m) on 2014-07-13
3 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
30 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
50 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
Ca. 225 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
White Wagtail
白鹡鸰 (bái jílíng)
Motacilla alba
2 at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-12
1 heard at Wǔzǐ Hú (2680 m) on 2014-07-13
1 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
2, 1 an adult male leucopsis, 1 juvenile, at Jīnyú Hú (2740 m) on 2014-07-14
1 adult male leucopsis at Wūlánshān (2990 m) on 2014-07-15
7 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3050 m) on 2014-07-15
1 male leucopsis at Yùzhūfēng Měishíchéng (4600 m) on 2014-07-20
2 leucopsis in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
Ca. 25 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
Olive-backed Pipit
树鹨 (shù liù)
Anthus hodgsoni
1 singing in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
Passeriformes: Fringillidae
Mongolian Finch
蒙古沙雀 (ménggǔ shāquè)
Bucanetes mongolicus
9 S of Sùběi (2360-2940 m) on 2014-07-24
1 S of Sùběi (2520 m) on 2014-07-25
25 on G215 S of Ākèsài (3490 m) on 2014-07-26
17 at pass on G215 S of Ākèsài (3660 m) on 2014-07-26
Plain Mountain Finch
林岭雀 (lín lǐngquè)
Leucosticte nemoricola
1 on G109 (4000 m) on 2014-07-22
Brandt’s Mountain Finch
高山岭雀 (gāoshān lǐngquè)
Leucosticte brandti
4 (1 chick) at Bayan Har Pass (4824 m) on 2014-07-18
4 at Yuzhufeng Glacier (5030 m) on 2014-07-20
1 on G109 (4000 m) on 2014-07-22
Common Rosefinch
普通朱雀 (pǔtōng zhūquè)
Carpodacus erythrinus
2 heard at scrubby area on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái (4040 m) on 2014-07-18
Twite
黄嘴朱顶雀 (huángzuǐ zhūdǐngquè)
Linaria flavirostris
1 at Bālóng (2890 m) on 2014-07-15
6 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3100 m) on 2014-07-15
10 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3300 m) on 2014-07-15
4 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3300-3575 m) on 2014-07-16
2 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-17
Ca. 30 S of Sùběi (2500 m) on 2014-07-25
5 on G215 S of Ākèsài (3490 m) on 2014-07-26
Passeriformes: Emberizidae
Godlewski’s Bunting
戈氏岩鹀 (gēshì yánwū)
Emberiza godlewskii
2 (pair) S of Sùběi (2500 m) on 2014-07-24
Common Reed Bunting
声鹀 (shēng wū)
Emberiza schoeniclus
4 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-22
4 at Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (2770 m) on 2014-07-26
reed bunting sp.
1 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
MAMMALS
First reference: Mammals of China, by Smith and Xie
Brian, Jan-Erik, and I noted 13 species, representing 5 orders and 8 families.
Lagomorpha: Ochotonidae
Plateau Pika
高原鼠兔 (gāoyuán shǔtù)
Ochotona curzoniae
10 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3570 m) on 2014-07-16
Ladak Pika
拉达克鼠兔 (lādákè shǔtù)
Ochotona ladacensis
1 on G109 N of Búdòngquán (4750 m) on 2014-07-20
1 at Yuzhufeng Glacier (5030 m) on 2014-07-20
Lagomorpha: Leporidae
Woolly Hare
高原兔 (gāoyuán tù)
Lepus oiostolus
1 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
2 at Yuzhufeng Glacier (4900 m) on 2014-07-20
1 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-25
3 in scrubby forest S of Sùběi (2220 m) on 2014-07-26
Rodentia: Sciuridae
Himalayan Marmot
喜马拉雅旱獭 (xǐmǎlāyǎ hàntǎ)
Marmota himalayana
4 at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
1 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
1 at Bangyang Pass (4500 m) on 2014-07-18
11 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Antelope Valley (4360-4420 m) on 2014-07-19
1 in Antelope Valley (4450 m) on 2014-07-19
Rodentia: Cricetidae
vole sp.
1 caught and devoured by Tibetan Fox at spot 13 km N of Mǎduō (4080 m) on 2014-07-17
Artiodactyla: Camelidae
Bactrian Camel
双峰驼 (shuāngfēng tuó)
Camelus bactrianus
3 (2 adults, 1 calf) at Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì (2620 m) on 2014-07-13
Herd of ca. 20 W of Bālóng (2890 m) on 2014-07-15
13 N of Dà Cháidàn on G215 (3290-3690 m) on 2013-07-23
Artiodactyla: Bovidae
Tibetan Antelope
藏羚 (zàng líng)
Pantholops hodgsonii
46 in Antelope Valley (4400-4450 m) on 2014-07-19
5 between Wǔdàoliáng and Búdòngquán (4510-4580 m) on 2014-07-22
Blue Sheep
岩羊 (yányáng)
Pseudois nayaur
21 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
Tibetan Gazelle
藏原羚 (zàng yuánlíng)
Procapra picticaudata
1 on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway (3350 m) on 2014-07-16
30 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
3 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
8 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Antelope Valley (4370-4440 m) on 2014-07-19
28 at Antelope Valley on 2014-07-19
2 on G109 S of Búdòngquán (4730 m) on 2014-07-20
10 at Yuzhufeng Glacier (4700-5100 m) on 2014-07-20
6 between Búdòngquán and Wǔdàoliáng (4500 m) on 2014-07-21
Ca. 9 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
11 between Wǔdàoliáng and Búdòngquán (4500 m) on 2014-07-22
Perissodactyla: Equidae
Tibetan Wild Ass (Kiang)
西藏野驴 (xīzàng yělǘ)
Equus kiang
92 at Gōuhuā (3990 m) on 2014-07-16
17 near Mǎduō (4100 m) on 2014-07-17
11 at spot 13 km N of Mǎduō (4080 m) on 2017-07-17
34 on S308 between Qǔmálái and Búdòngquán (4390-4420 m) on 2014-07-19
89 in Antelope Valley (4400-4450 m) on 2014-07-19
2 W of Antelope Valley on S308 (4500 m) on 2014-07-19
9 on G109 S of Búdòngquán (4730 m) on 2014-07-20
10 at Yuzhufeng Glacier (4700-4900 m) on 2014-07-20
14 on G109 between Wǔdàoliáng and Fēnghuǒshān (4600-5000 m) on 2014-07-21
Carnivora: Canidae
Tibetan Wolf
藏狼 (zàng láng)
Canis lupus filchneri
1 in Antelope Valley (4430 m) on 2014-07-19
Red Fox
赤狐 (chì hú)
Vulpes vulpes
3 on G109 below Fēnghuǒshān (4880 m) on 2014-07-21
1 at point on G215 ca. 200 km N of Golmud (3170 m) on 2013-07-23
Tibetan Fox
藏狐 (zàng hú)
Vulpes ferrilata
1 at Dōnggěicuònà Hú (3950 m) on 2014-07-17
1 at spot 13 km N of Mǎduō on G214 (4080 m) on 2014-07-17
2 ca. 17 km E of Qǔmálái on S308 (4500 m) on 2014-07-18
1 in Antelope Valley (4450 m) on 2014-07-19
LIST OF PLACE NAMES
Ākèsài (阿克塞): Town in Gansu 45 km from Sùběi
Antelope Valley: Broad, spectacular section of the Chuma’er River (Chǔmǎěr Hé [楚玛尔河]) Valley extending from a point about 73 km E of Búdòngquán on the S308 to a point about 123 km E of Búdòngquán. Our favorite point in the 50-km stretch was the 15-km section 100-115 km from Búdòngquán. There we saw a Tibetan Wolf and Tibetan Antelope. Elev.: 4400-4450 m
Bālóng (巴隆): Village on G109 100 km W of Dúlán (都兰). Elev.: 2900 m
Bangyang Pass (Bāngyáng Shānkǒu [邦阳山口]): Pass on S308 between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái. Elev.: 4690 m
Bayan Har Pass (Bāyán Kālā Shānkǒu [巴颜喀拉山口]): Pass on G214 separating Yellow River and Yangtze River basins. Elev.: 4824 m
Búdòngquán (不冻泉): Point on G109. W terminus of S308. Elev.: 4600 m
Dà Cháidàn (大柴旦): Town ca. 200 km N of Golmud. Elev.: 3170 m
Dōnggěicuònà Hú (冬给错纳湖): Lake ca. 25 km from Huāshíxiá (花石峡) on the Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway. Elev.: 3950 m
Fēnghuǒshān (风火山): Point on G109 70 km S of Wǔdàoliáng. Elev.: 5010 m
Golmud (Géěrmù [格尔木]): City in W Qinghai. Elev.: 2800 m
Gōuhuā (沟花): Valley ca. 30 km W of Huāshíxiá (花石峡) on Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway. Elev.: 3990 m
Huāshíxiá (花石峡): Town on G214. E terminus of Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway is a few km N of town on G214. Elev.: 4070 m
Húyánglín Zìrán Bǎohùqū (胡杨林自然保护区): Nature reserve 56 km W of Golmud on S303. Elev.: 2700 m
Jīnyú Hú (金鱼湖): Recreational area on W outskirts of Golmud. Elev.: 2740 m
Kunlun Pass (kūnlún shānkǒu [昆仑山口]): On G109. Elev.: 4771 m
Mǎduō (玛多): Town on G214. Elev.: 4120 m
Nuòmùhóng Dì-wǔ Dàduì: Elev.: 2620 m
Qīngshuǐhé (清水河): Town on G214 S of Bayan Har Pass. Elev.: 4270 m
Qǔmálái (曲麻莱): Ethnic Tibetan town on S308 in Qinghai. Elev.: 4200 m
Scrubby area between Qīngshuǐhé and Qǔmálái, ca. 80 km from latter. Elev.: 4040 m
Sùběi (肃北): Town in W Gansu. Elev.: 2200 m
Wǔdàoliáng (五道梁): Village on G109 S of Búdòngquán
Wūlánshān (乌兰山): Agricultural valley on G109 W of Dúlán (都兰). The western terminus of the Wūlánshān-Huāshíxiá Highway is here. Elev.: 2990 m
Wǔzǐ Hú (五子湖): Lake in desert 40 km E of Golmud, off G109. Elev.: 2680 m
Xiǎo Cháidámù Hú (小柴达木湖): Lake N of Golmud
Yúshuǐhé Yúchí (鱼水河鱼池): Small wetland on G215 N of Golmud. Elev.: 2770 m
Yuzhufeng Glacier (Yùzhūfēng Bīngchuān [玉珠峰冰川]): 18 km N of Búdòngquán on G109. Elevations covered by our team: 4700-5100 m
Yùzhūfēng Měishíchéng (玉珠峰美食城): Restaurant on G109 ca. 60 km N of Búdòngquán. Elev.: 4100 m
Featured image: Tibetan Gazelle on a ridge in Chuma’er River Valley, Qinghai, China. Elev. 4420 m. 19 July 2014.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Special thanks to my partners, Brian Ivon Jones and Jan-Erik Nilsén. From Brian I learned the value of finding new places to bird and of never ceasing to be curious and to ask questions. From Jan-Erik I learned the value of doing the daily list of birds early, while memories are still fresh. Mark Beaman and Yann Muzika provided us with a constant stream of encouragement and tips.
MORE POSTS ON QINGHAI
shanghaibirding.com offers unparalleled coverage of birding in Qinghai. Below is an index to our posts on Qinghai. Reach us at info@shanghaibirding.com.
Summer-long Birding Expedition to Qinghai (Introduction): We birded Qinghai from June to August, spending the entire summer in the province. We noted classic Tibetan Plateau birds White Eared Pheasant, Black-necked Crane, White-browed Tit, and Przevalski’s Redstart. We explored little-birded northern Qinghai, discovering new locations for Przevalski’s Partridge, Tibetan Sandgrouse, and Gansu Leaf Warbler.
Birding Eastern Qinghai, from the Border with Gansu to the Border with Tibet: We spent the first two weeks of the expedition covering eastern Qinghai, from the Gansu border in northeast Qinghai to Ga’er Monastery on the border with Tibet. We had Henderson’s Ground Jay west of Chaka, Ibisbill on tributaries of the Mekong River, White-browed Tit in scrub along the G109, and Güldenstädt’s Redstart breeding near Qinghai Lake.
Birding Qinghai’s Eastern Yushu Prefecture: We found Tibetan Lynx in the Kanda Mountains, discovered new birding sites, and at an art school in the wilderness immersed ourselves in Tibetan Buddhist culture. Among our highlights were Grandala and Red-fronted Rosefinch, the highest-breeding bird in the Palearctic. Our mammals included White-lipped Deer and Mongolian Five-toed Jerboa, and we saw evidence of attacks by Brown Bear.
Birding the Qilian Mountains of Northern Qinghai: Our most important discovery was the poplar forests along the Heihe and Babao rivers, where we encountered woodland species Gansu Leaf Warbler and Chinese Thrush. Conifer forests yielded Black Woodpecker, and the scrub and pastureland gave us Eurasian Eagle-Owl, Siberian Roe Deer, and Mountain Weasel.
Forbidding (and Forbidden) Hala Lake: Defying a ban on foreigners, we birded the wild, remote inland sea in north-central Qinghai, elev. 4077 m (13,376 ft.). The lake yielded several interesting Qinghai records, among them Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, and Eurasian Whimbrel. Near shore, in perfect semi-desert habitat, we discovered flocks of Tibetan Sandgrouse.
Birding the Remote Backcountry of Wulan County, Qinghai: Amid stunning scenery, we found Tibetan Wolf, discovered a new location for Przevalski’s Partridge, and around Lake Xiligou had Qinghai favorites Black-necked Crane and Tibetan Lark. The lake held a noisy super-flock of 4,600 Ruddy Shelduck, and Mongolian Goitered Gazelle were in the hills behind. Near Chaka we had Mute Swan.
Index to Place Names in Qinghai: Study this list and plan your trip to Qinghai, the most exciting province for birding in China. We offer fascinating facts on famous places as well as sites little known, all with geographic coordinates. Read also our bibliography and use our index of eBird lists from the summer-long expedition.
Tibetan Bunting Leads Parade of Tibetan Plateau Endemics in Qinghai: shanghaibirding.com founder Craig Brelsford led a three-person team on a 23-day trip to Qinghai. We covered most of the Tibetans (Tibetan Snowcock, Tibetan Partridge, Tibetan Babax, Tibetan Rosefinch, and Tibetan Bunting) and found Przevalski’s Finch near Qinghai Lake.
Qinghai in October: Jesper Hornskov and his team noted 178 species of bird in October, a time of year, Hornskov writes, “when few dedicated birdwatchers visit this unique land.”
Qinghai in the Age of Covid: Covid-19 complicated the trip, but watching Tibetan Wolf pups frolic made all the trouble worthwhile. We sampled a wide array of western China birds, among them Daurian Partridge, Pallas’s Sandgrouse, and White-winged Grosbeak.
In addition to coverage of Qinghai and our core area of Shanghai, shanghaibirding.com has extensive coverage of other areas of China, among them
Fujian
Northeast China
Sichuan
Xinjiang
Yunnan
